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The Rolex GMT-Master II stands as one of the most sought-after luxury travel watches in the world. Its predecessor, the original GMT-Master without numerical markings, essentially laid the groundwork for dual-time zone timepieces that have been emulated for over fifty years. This article offers an in-depth exploration of the history and evolution of the GMT-Master II, tracing its aviation-inspired origins from 1954 to its iconic status today, highlighting all the significant models along the way.
1954: “PEPSI” FOR PILOTS
Rolex, the renowned luxury watch brand founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, has a rich history of innovation and excellence in timekeeping. One of its significant milestones occurred in 1953 with the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner. This iconic watch was the first serially produced wristwatch with a water-resistant case capable of withstanding depths of 100 meters, making it a pioneering choice for divers.
If watch enthusiasts were curious about what Rolex would do next, they didn’t have to wait long. In 1954, Rolex introduced the original GMT-Master (Ref. 6542), which hit the market in 1955. This groundbreaking timepiece became the first watch to display two separate time zones, thanks to its innovative design featuring a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The GMT in its name stands for “Greenwich Mean Time,” reflecting the system of global timekeeping based on mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London.
Rolex continues to set the standard for luxury watches, combining style, functionality, and cutting-edge technology. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a new enthusiast, understanding the legacy of Rolex watches like the Submariner and GMT-Master can enhance your appreciation for these exceptional timepieces.
The GMT-Master's dual-time functionality was a groundbreaking innovation developed in collaboration with its original users: the pilots of Pan American Airlines, one of the leading commercial carriers in the U.S. during the so-called Golden Age of aviation. The rise of long-haul and international flights created a demand for a tool watch that could help pilots track the time in both their home city and their destination, no matter where in the world they were. While various watch manufacturers have attempted to display and monitor multiple time zones, Rolex's design has emerged as the most influential and enduring, becoming the standard for other brands aiming to attract global travelers.
The first-generation GMT-Master Ref. 6452 drew inspiration from an existing model in Rolex’s lineup, the Datejust Turn-o-Graph, which was the brand’s first watch featuring a rotating bezel. This timepiece boasted a 38mm steel Oyster case and a striking black dial adorned with Rolex’s iconic “Mercedes” hands. It also included a date window at 3 o’clock magnified by the signature “Cyclops” lens. Notably, it featured a bidirectional bezel with a Bakelite insert, marked with a 24-hour scale divided into red and blue sectors, providing a clever visual distinction between daytime and nighttime hours.
However, the original Bakelite bezel proved brittle and susceptible to cracking, and its luminous radium coating was mildly radioactive. Consequently, later iterations of the Ref. 6452, produced until 1959, transitioned to a more durable anodized aluminum bezel. The movement powering the Ref. 6452 was Caliber 1036, Rolex’s inaugural GMT-enabled movement, where the GMT hand was linked to the central 12-hour hand, making the rotating bezel essential for tracking an additional time zone.
The iconic red-and-blue bezel of the original GMT-Master was inspired by Pan Am’s famous livery, leading many to associate the watch with the popular "Pepsi" soft drink, earning it the nickname “Pepsi.” This association highlights the GMT-Master's unique style and cultural relevance. Similar to the Submariner, which came before it, the GMT-Master gained fame through its appearance in the James Bond film series. In Goldfinger (1965), actress Honor Blackman, portraying Pussy Galore, sported this legendary watch, further linking the model to the glamorous world of James Bond.
Additionally, the GMT-Master was the first Rolex sports watch to be offered in luxurious gold versions, quickly following the original steel models. This combination of style, cinematic history, and luxury makes the GMT-Master a sought-after timepiece for collectors and watch enthusiasts alike.
1983: THE FAT LADY SINGS FOR A COKE
The Ref. 1675 GMT-Master, which succeeded the 6452 series, enjoyed a lengthy production run from 1959 to 1980. This model introduced gilt dials alongside matte versions, featured new dial detail variations, updated crown guards on the case, and a new generation of movements (Calibers 1565 and 1575, with the latter incorporating a quick-set date function). This era also saw the emergence of rare and collectible models, each with its own nickname. One notable version from the late '60s, affectionately dubbed the "Pink Panther" by collectors, showcased a vibrant fuchsia hue instead of the standard red for the daytime sector of the bezel. Additionally, an all-gold model with a brown bezel, due to its luxurious appeal, earned the nickname "Concorde," in homage to the supersonic transatlantic airliner favored by the Jet Set. These models, including the Ref. 16750 that followed closely after the 1675 and gained fame as the watch worn by Tom Selleck in the iconic 1980s series “Magnum, P.I.,” paved the way for the first significant technical and aesthetic evolution of the Rolex GMT-Master, which was introduced in 1983.
The Ref. 16760, recognized as the first GMT-Master II, marked a significant turning point in the watch industry for what is considered the most historically important traveler’s watch. Encased in a 40mm steel housing, it featured Rolex’s innovative Caliber 3085, which introduced a subtle yet sophisticated technical advancement: the decoupling of the arrow-tipped GMT hand from the local hour hand. This innovation allowed users to adjust the hour hand independently in one-hour increments without affecting the seconds or GMT hands, facilitating easier local time adjustments and enabling the reading of a third time zone on the rotating bezel alongside a second.
Notably, the GMT bezel debuted a striking new color scheme—red for daytime hours and black for nighttime—earning it the playful nickname “Coca-Cola” or “Coke.” Among Rolex enthusiasts, this reference is affectionately known as the “Fat Lady” due to its thicker case designed to accommodate the new movement, or the “Sophia Loren” for its redesigned, ergonomic curves.
The GMT-Master II Ref. 16760 was also the first Rolex to incorporate white gold in its dial details, such as the indexes—a practice that has since become standard across Rolex’s collection. This model laid the groundwork for the longer-lived 16710 series, which continued production until 2007, when the next wave of Rolex innovations arrived to evolve this 1950s classic into the modern era. Meanwhile, the beloved original GMT-Master concluded its production run at the dawn of the new millennium, in 1999, with the Ref. 16700.
2013: THE DARK KNIGHT RISES
As Rolex evolved into a more vertically integrated watch manufacturer in the early 21st century, updates to its iconic watches began to roll out rapidly. The significant changes for the GMT-Master II started with the 2005 release, coinciding with the model's 50th anniversary. This version featured a larger 40mm gold case, which was a common size for that time, and introduced the innovative Caliber 3816 movement. This new movement included Rolex’s Parachrom hairspring, enhancing shock resistance and temperature stability compared to earlier models.
The GMT-Master II also showcased the waterproof Triplock crown, previously seen in Rolex's Submariner and Sea-Dweller dive watches. It was paired with a luxurious bracelet featuring polished center links and a sturdy machined clasp. Notably, the bezel was upgraded to a scratch-resistant ceramic known as Cerachrom, starting with a classic black color.
In 2007, the first steel GMT-Master II models with Cerachrom inserts were launched, marking the transition from traditional aluminum bezels to durable ceramic. This shift meant the end of the beloved bicolor bezels, especially the iconic “Pepsi” and “Coke” styles, as Rolex and other manufacturers struggled to produce satisfactory ceramic parts in vibrant colors, particularly red.
These advancements highlight Rolex's commitment to innovation and quality, ensuring that the GMT-Master II remains a sought-after timepiece for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.
In 2013, Rolex reached a significant milestone by introducing the first two-color bezel insert made of Cerachrom. This innovative feature debuted on the iconic GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR, which became a standout model that year. The watch showcased a unique color combination—black for night and dark blue for day—marking a new chapter in the long-running GMT-Master series. This distinctive design inspired the nickname “Batman,” following earlier names like “Bruiser” and “Phantom” that didn’t catch on.
To create this remarkable bezel, Rolex developed a patented process where blue ceramic is infused with black color on half of its surface while still in a permeable state. The 24-hour gradations, meticulously engraved into the hardened ceramic, are coated with a thin layer of platinum, and the entire bezel is then diamond-polished for a stunning high gloss finish. This innovative process ensures that the bezel's colors remain vibrant and won’t fade over the years, even when exposed to ultraviolet rays—watch collectors refer to this fading as “tropicalization.”
The Rolex GMT-Master II “Batman” model also features luxurious elements, including white gold hands sweeping over a sleek black lacquered dial. Furthermore, the watch incorporates Rolex’s blue-glowing Chromalight substance on the hands and indexes, enhancing visibility in low light. Inside, it houses the automatic Caliber 3816, which boasts COSC chronometer certification and a remarkable 48-hour power reserve.
2018: A PEPSI JUBILEE & A ROOT BEER REDUX
Just a year after the debut of "Batman," Rolex's innovative team tackled the challenge of creating a stunning red-and-blue bicolor ceramic bezel. This iconic bezel made its first appearance on the GMT-Master II Ref. 116719BLRO, marking the return of the beloved “Pepsi” model and making history as the first GMT-Master crafted from 18k white gold.
Rolex collaborated with a team of scientists to develop a proprietary process for producing this unique bezel. By adding chromium oxide, magnesium oxide, and rare earth oxide to the ceramic's aluminum oxide base, they achieved a vibrant red color that was previously difficult to replicate using natural pigments.
Due to the costly and time-intensive research and development required to perfect this process, the "Pepsi" bezels were initially available only in the limited-production white gold version. This combination of cutting-edge technology and luxury craftsmanship makes the GMT-Master II a sought-after timepiece for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.
Four years later, Rolex responded to enthusiasts by releasing the highly anticipated GMT-Master II featuring a Cerachrom Pepsi bezel and a durable 904L stainless steel case, known as “Oystersteel.” This model is paired with the classic five-link “Jubilee” bracelet, originally designed for the Datejust in 1945, instead of the now-popular three-link Oyster bracelet. The watch (Reference 126710BLRO) became the highlight of an exciting year for the GMT-Master II in 2018, which not only saw the latest movement upgrade but also introduced a sought-after bicolor bezel option. This release solidified the GMT-Master II's status as a must-have watch for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Rolex enthusiasts, including many fans of sugary beverages, originally adopted the nickname “Root Beer” for a watch from 1970 (Ref. 1675/3), which featured a bicolor brown-and-gold GMT bezel. This timepiece gained notoriety as the personal watch of actor and director Clint Eastwood, making several on-screen appearances in his films. In 2018, the name was revived for the GMT-Master II models Refs. 126715CHNR and 126711CHNR—the former crafted in Rolex’s proprietary Everose gold alloy and the latter in a two-tone steel-and-gold “Rolesor” configuration—both distinguished by their black-and-brown Cerachrom bezels.
Rolex celebrated another technical milestone with the introduction of the Oystersteel “Pepsi” and Everose gold Rolesor “Root Beers” in 2018. From this point onward, all GMT-Master models, including the “Batman” on a Jubilee bracelet released in 2019, feature the in-house Caliber 3285, which is backed by an impressive ten patent applications. Key highlights of this movement include the innovative blue Parachrom hairspring, the energy-efficient and magnetic-resistant Chronergy escapement, and an enhanced power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Since 2015, Rolex has also established its own “Superlative Chronometer” certification, prominently displayed on the watch's black lacquered dial. This certification demands a precision standard of -2/+2 seconds per day, which is even stricter than the criteria required for the esteemed COSC chronometer certificate.
2022: LEFT-HANDED COMPLEMENT
At Watches & Wonders 2022 in Geneva, Rolex made a splash with its debut at this prestigious luxury watch fair by unveiling a new version of the GMT-Master II. This innovative model features a unique design, with the crown, crown guards, and Cyclops date window all positioned on the left side of the case. As one of the few luxury watches tailored for left-handed wearers, this is also Rolex's first model to go into mainstream production for this audience.
To mark this significant launch, Rolex introduced a stunning new colorway: a striking green-and-black bicolor Cerachrom bezel that beautifully complements the 40mm Oystersteel case, which is water-resistant up to 100 meters. This left-handed GMT-Master II not only showcases Rolex's commitment to craftsmanship and design but also sets a new trend in luxury watches. Whether you're a collector or a watch enthusiast, this model is sure to be a standout addition to any collection.
The left-handed orientation of the new Rolex GMT-Master II (Ref. 126720VTNR) prompted the brand to adapt its Superlative Chronometer testing process for the Caliber 3285 movement. This ensures that this model maintains the same elite levels of precision, robustness, and power reserve as its right-handed counterparts.
Featuring an Oyster bracelet with the innovative Oysterlock safety clasp, the watch is designed to prevent accidental opening. Additionally, the Easylink extension device allows for bracelet length adjustments of up to 5mm, enhancing wearing comfort.
Currently, the striking green-black color combination is exclusive to this special left-handed edition, generating buzz among collectors and enthusiasts. As for nicknames, the Rolex community is debating which unofficial title will stick. While “Hulk” and “Kermit” are already associated with green-dominant Submariner models, the leading contenders for this GMT-Master II include the beverage-inspired “Sprite” and “Starbucks,” along with the comic book reference "Green Lantern."
2024: SHADES OF GREY
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Rolex unveiled two stunning GMT-Master II models crafted from durable Oystersteel. Both models feature a striking gray-and-black bicolor bezel made from high-tech ceramic, designed to enhance performance and style. The graduated color effect of the bezel is accentuated by a PVD treatment applied to the molded, recessed numbers on the 24-hour scale.
Demonstrating Rolex's renowned technical expertise, the ceramic bezel is inert, ensuring it won't corrode over time. Its knurled edge allows for easy handling when adjusting time zones. The black lacquer dial showcases the "GMT-Master" name in vibrant green, matching the arrow-tipped central GMT hand.
One model is paired with Rolex's classic three-link Oyster bracelet, while the other boasts a five-link Jubilee bracelet, both made from Oystersteel. Each bracelet is equipped with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp and the Easylink extension for an adjustable fit of up to 5 mm.
This new release has already earned the nickname "Bruce Wayne," referencing Batman's sophisticated alter ego, likely due to its elegant black-to-gray color scheme that perfectly complements cocktail attire. Discover the elegance and innovation of these new Rolex GMT-Master II watches that blend functionality with timeless style.
Conclusion
The Rolex GMT-Master II is more than just a timepiece; it's a symbol of adventure, precision, and timeless style. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer, the GMT-Master II offers unparalleled functionality and elegance. Visit TB Jewelers in Miami, Florida, to explore our collection of luxury watches and discover the perfect Rolex GMT-Master II for your collection. Trust us as your go-to destination for all things precious and valuable.
